Kawa's Guide to Nail Care
Mar. 19th, 2013 11:35 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
fandomonymousHEY INTERNET, LET'S TALK A WHOLE LOT ABOUT THAT KERATIN AT THE EDGES OF YOUR FINGERS, SHALL WE????
This is what works for me, and has worked for the past two years or so. I don't have the best nails in the world but they're definitely strong and grow fairly long without too many breaks or other problems. Obviously your mileage will vary as your body is different from mine, but I hope this will be a good starting point!
Also, it's stupidly long and there's no pictures, just links. (I don't guarantee the links are to the cheapest prices of these products on the Internet, either.) Sorry about that, it's just what was easiest for me to whip up. I hope you like it anyway.
Thing 0: about me
I have eczema, and dry skin more generally. Some of this will be overkill if your skin isn't dry, but as I said, this works for me. One of my nails has pretty severe pits because one of my eczema sites edges on the cuticle of that nail. It makes that nail weaker and that nail grows slightly lopsided compared to the rest, but with my routine it's hardly noticeable and the nail is surprisingly strong.
Oh yeah, and if you didn't know: I'm American. I'm going to refer to and link to stores and brands in the United States, available in New York City or central Florida or both (because that's where I've lived). Non-Americans may have different products available; go with what works for you, or if you're really interested check international sites like Amazon, but I really doubt that'll be necessary.
Thing 1: take care of yourself
Just like your hair and your skin and all that, your body creates your nails, so taking care of your body is a lot of what taking care of your nails is actually about. Because I am incapable of retaining any of my own moisture, I've got to get that moisture into my body as much as possible and keep it in there. So two things I really try hard to do are stay hydrated and use lotions whenever possible.
The hydration thing is pretty obvious: you should be drinking water. And yes, preferably water over soda/juice/whatever. Yeah, you'll urinate a lot, but whatever, it can't hurt you.
Lotions hydrate, and most also act as occlusives: that is, they create a physical barrier, locking whatever moisture is there from the outside and keeping it there near your skin. What lotion you use on your hands doesn't matter too much, as long as you're comfortable with it. I carry around one of these fancy evolution of smooth things because well, why not? (Besides, it smells REALLY GOOD.) But seriously, whatever works for you is fine. If you're worried about your palms being greasy, just apply small amounts to the area around your nails and work it in as if it were a cuticle cream; if you're desperate, you can use unflavored, uncolored lip balm/Chapstick (I have been known to do this) or straight up petroleum jelly.
Thing 2: picking out polish
I buy cheap polish unless I'm really, really given reasons not to. I am completely unapologetic about this. I trawl through the discount bins at drugstores, Sally Beauty Supply, and Ulta, deep discount stores like TJ Maxx and Marshall's, and independent beauty supply shops (the types where others would buy weaves) and find all SORTS of amazing things, including a LOT of dupes or near-dupes of more expensive colors. I don't own a single OPI or Zoya. I own exactly two Essies from when CVS was having a sale and two Butter Londons from when Ulta was having a sale, and those include shades that are just impossible to find cheaper equivalents for.
A shortlist of cheap brands I really love: Soo, Ruby Kisses, Brucci, Kleancolor, CQ (all found at independent beauty supply shops and some Rite Aids); Wet N Wild, New York Color (most mainstream chain drugstores). And yes, that behemoth that is Sally Hansen, though it depends on the line - I love love love the Xtreme Wear line the most, but I do have some from Diamond Strength and Insta-Dri. Once upon a time you could find their ancient Nail Prisms line at places like Marshall's, which is amazing - those prized holographic polishes for less than half the price of the modern ones? SIGN ME UP.
I recommend picking up nail thinner (I have a giant bottle from Sally Beauty Supply that I haven't made a dent in) and using it whenever you need it. DON'T USE POLISH REMOVER TO THIN NAIL POLISH, GUYS. Nail polish remover is designed to break down the pigments of your polish and it'll ruin things. Seriously, don't do it!
Thing 3: removing old polish and nail prep
I use acetone - straight up. It's so much faster and more efficient than any other method that none other is worth it. Sometimes I will pick up acetone-based removers if I can't find pure acetone for some reason; these have glycerin to tone down the drying effect and sometimes also fragrances. I don't care about the fragrance, but I admit the glycerin helps.
No matter what you end up using, let the chemicals work their magic. I wet my cotton ball with remover, press it against the nail, and leave it pressed there for at least 30 seconds - maybe up to two minutes if I've got on stubborn glitters - before swiping down, and then I'll repeat (wet, press, hold, swipe) if necessary. Yes, this takes time, but it's better than frantically scrubbing your nail beds.
I let my nails dry a bit before doing anything else. If I want to trim and/or file, now's the time. I trim very very rarely (only when I really want to start over) and I always file after I trim. I was madly in love with my Swissco glass file, and then I sat on it and I haven't been back to Sally's to get a replacement. Honestly, if you prefer emery boards, I think that's okay - as long as the grit is high enough - remember, you are basically using sandpaper on your nails! (Hint: if you don't know the grit and/or if your nails edges look and feel ragged after filing, your grit probably isn't high enough. I try to stay over 300.)
I keep my nails oval to squoval. What works for you is up to you and how curved your nail is. (The links can teach you about this better than I can.)
I will occasionally buff my nails at this point, very gently, with one of those white blocks. I'll run the edges of my nails on this too, very briefly, if I decided to trim/file. I personally have never pushed or cut my cuticles - they are where your nail grows from and I think intentionally moving them around or damaging them doesn't make sense.
If I'm not going to put polish on, I stop here, moisturize, and go on my merry way. I DO NOT moisturize if I'm about to put on polish; that can wait until after the new polish is on.
Thing 4: putting polish on
Putting on any coat of anything goes in three strokes, like shown here.
I always put on a coat of base coat. I'm still searching for my perfect one, but considering my pits there may not be such a thing. I've tried OPI's ridge filler (it's the only OPI product I've ever purchased) and it was alright, but not really any more magical than the $2.50 one from Brucci. But again, my nail is pitted, so I may just be a lost cause here. (I really do want to try Orly's Bonder one day, but I haven't gotten around to getting a bottle for myself...)
Coats of polish go on one at a time, slowly and thin if at all possible, in three strokes like that link. I keep my hand on a table. I tend to do all the coats (with top coat) on one hand, let it dry, then do the other. Your non-dominant hand is going to suck at doing this - that's why you keep the other hand steady on a table and be patient with yourself. You'll get better at this with time, I promise.
Most polishes only need two coats to be opaque. The truly lucky ones only need one, and some stubborn ones need three. I also love layering - try a layer or two of black then a layer of something shimmery and multichrome! Play with every glitter combination under the sun! This is where it gets to be fun and exciting, after all. :D I admit I have no experience with nail art, stamping, or those nail polish stickers, though of course if those appeal to you I can't stop you.
If I'm using really "gritty" glitters, want a matte effect (more on that in just a second), or just want to be really sure my polish will last a while, I'll apply a coat of a non-quick dry top coat before my quick dry top coat final layer. I like Gelous, but Sally Hansen's classic Hard As Nails works here too.
After my last layer, I give my nails two minutes, then add a thick layer of quick dry top coat. Seche Vite is fine, so is Essie's Good To Go and Sally Hansen's Insta-Dri top coat (the red bottle one). All of these will probably need regular thinning, so keep that nail thinner around. After three more minutes, I can generally use a keyboard and mouse again without problems. Really, I don't mind a little smudging, as long as it's not excessive.
Those give a glossy effect at the end. If you want to have a more matte look, I've had no issues with Hard Candy's matte top coat. Note that matte coats are easier to damage than non-matte coats, so I have the non-quick dry top coat layer under these whenever I can.
My nail polish tends to last about four days before I need to start over, though sometimes I'll get lucky and it'll last a bit longer (especially if I've used Gelous).
And now I'll definitely moisturize my hands, now that my nails are dry and ready.
Thing 5: Other Resources
I used to hang out at Makeup Alley's nail care board back in 2011. They're pretty knowledgeable folks as a whole, and the Nail Board Wisdom notepad is a sight to behold (and the source of that three strokes to polish image). Be warned, though: I find they often care way more about small differences in color shades than most sane people, and trying to follow trends as they see them will result in a huge polish collection that you'll use once and then forget about. (Though honestly, this is true for most polish-obsessed folks in general.)
Loodie Loodie Loodie, despite the silly name, is a totally serious blog about nail health. I think she's occasionally a bit overboard, but her info on nail shape and moisturizing are utterly spot on.
This is what works for me, and has worked for the past two years or so. I don't have the best nails in the world but they're definitely strong and grow fairly long without too many breaks or other problems. Obviously your mileage will vary as your body is different from mine, but I hope this will be a good starting point!
Also, it's stupidly long and there's no pictures, just links. (I don't guarantee the links are to the cheapest prices of these products on the Internet, either.) Sorry about that, it's just what was easiest for me to whip up. I hope you like it anyway.
Thing 0: about me
I have eczema, and dry skin more generally. Some of this will be overkill if your skin isn't dry, but as I said, this works for me. One of my nails has pretty severe pits because one of my eczema sites edges on the cuticle of that nail. It makes that nail weaker and that nail grows slightly lopsided compared to the rest, but with my routine it's hardly noticeable and the nail is surprisingly strong.
Oh yeah, and if you didn't know: I'm American. I'm going to refer to and link to stores and brands in the United States, available in New York City or central Florida or both (because that's where I've lived). Non-Americans may have different products available; go with what works for you, or if you're really interested check international sites like Amazon, but I really doubt that'll be necessary.
Thing 1: take care of yourself
Just like your hair and your skin and all that, your body creates your nails, so taking care of your body is a lot of what taking care of your nails is actually about. Because I am incapable of retaining any of my own moisture, I've got to get that moisture into my body as much as possible and keep it in there. So two things I really try hard to do are stay hydrated and use lotions whenever possible.
The hydration thing is pretty obvious: you should be drinking water. And yes, preferably water over soda/juice/whatever. Yeah, you'll urinate a lot, but whatever, it can't hurt you.
Lotions hydrate, and most also act as occlusives: that is, they create a physical barrier, locking whatever moisture is there from the outside and keeping it there near your skin. What lotion you use on your hands doesn't matter too much, as long as you're comfortable with it. I carry around one of these fancy evolution of smooth things because well, why not? (Besides, it smells REALLY GOOD.) But seriously, whatever works for you is fine. If you're worried about your palms being greasy, just apply small amounts to the area around your nails and work it in as if it were a cuticle cream; if you're desperate, you can use unflavored, uncolored lip balm/Chapstick (I have been known to do this) or straight up petroleum jelly.
Thing 2: picking out polish
I buy cheap polish unless I'm really, really given reasons not to. I am completely unapologetic about this. I trawl through the discount bins at drugstores, Sally Beauty Supply, and Ulta, deep discount stores like TJ Maxx and Marshall's, and independent beauty supply shops (the types where others would buy weaves) and find all SORTS of amazing things, including a LOT of dupes or near-dupes of more expensive colors. I don't own a single OPI or Zoya. I own exactly two Essies from when CVS was having a sale and two Butter Londons from when Ulta was having a sale, and those include shades that are just impossible to find cheaper equivalents for.
A shortlist of cheap brands I really love: Soo, Ruby Kisses, Brucci, Kleancolor, CQ (all found at independent beauty supply shops and some Rite Aids); Wet N Wild, New York Color (most mainstream chain drugstores). And yes, that behemoth that is Sally Hansen, though it depends on the line - I love love love the Xtreme Wear line the most, but I do have some from Diamond Strength and Insta-Dri. Once upon a time you could find their ancient Nail Prisms line at places like Marshall's, which is amazing - those prized holographic polishes for less than half the price of the modern ones? SIGN ME UP.
I recommend picking up nail thinner (I have a giant bottle from Sally Beauty Supply that I haven't made a dent in) and using it whenever you need it. DON'T USE POLISH REMOVER TO THIN NAIL POLISH, GUYS. Nail polish remover is designed to break down the pigments of your polish and it'll ruin things. Seriously, don't do it!
Thing 3: removing old polish and nail prep
I use acetone - straight up. It's so much faster and more efficient than any other method that none other is worth it. Sometimes I will pick up acetone-based removers if I can't find pure acetone for some reason; these have glycerin to tone down the drying effect and sometimes also fragrances. I don't care about the fragrance, but I admit the glycerin helps.
No matter what you end up using, let the chemicals work their magic. I wet my cotton ball with remover, press it against the nail, and leave it pressed there for at least 30 seconds - maybe up to two minutes if I've got on stubborn glitters - before swiping down, and then I'll repeat (wet, press, hold, swipe) if necessary. Yes, this takes time, but it's better than frantically scrubbing your nail beds.
I let my nails dry a bit before doing anything else. If I want to trim and/or file, now's the time. I trim very very rarely (only when I really want to start over) and I always file after I trim. I was madly in love with my Swissco glass file, and then I sat on it and I haven't been back to Sally's to get a replacement. Honestly, if you prefer emery boards, I think that's okay - as long as the grit is high enough - remember, you are basically using sandpaper on your nails! (Hint: if you don't know the grit and/or if your nails edges look and feel ragged after filing, your grit probably isn't high enough. I try to stay over 300.)
I keep my nails oval to squoval. What works for you is up to you and how curved your nail is. (The links can teach you about this better than I can.)
I will occasionally buff my nails at this point, very gently, with one of those white blocks. I'll run the edges of my nails on this too, very briefly, if I decided to trim/file. I personally have never pushed or cut my cuticles - they are where your nail grows from and I think intentionally moving them around or damaging them doesn't make sense.
If I'm not going to put polish on, I stop here, moisturize, and go on my merry way. I DO NOT moisturize if I'm about to put on polish; that can wait until after the new polish is on.
Thing 4: putting polish on
Putting on any coat of anything goes in three strokes, like shown here.
I always put on a coat of base coat. I'm still searching for my perfect one, but considering my pits there may not be such a thing. I've tried OPI's ridge filler (it's the only OPI product I've ever purchased) and it was alright, but not really any more magical than the $2.50 one from Brucci. But again, my nail is pitted, so I may just be a lost cause here. (I really do want to try Orly's Bonder one day, but I haven't gotten around to getting a bottle for myself...)
Coats of polish go on one at a time, slowly and thin if at all possible, in three strokes like that link. I keep my hand on a table. I tend to do all the coats (with top coat) on one hand, let it dry, then do the other. Your non-dominant hand is going to suck at doing this - that's why you keep the other hand steady on a table and be patient with yourself. You'll get better at this with time, I promise.
Most polishes only need two coats to be opaque. The truly lucky ones only need one, and some stubborn ones need three. I also love layering - try a layer or two of black then a layer of something shimmery and multichrome! Play with every glitter combination under the sun! This is where it gets to be fun and exciting, after all. :D I admit I have no experience with nail art, stamping, or those nail polish stickers, though of course if those appeal to you I can't stop you.
If I'm using really "gritty" glitters, want a matte effect (more on that in just a second), or just want to be really sure my polish will last a while, I'll apply a coat of a non-quick dry top coat before my quick dry top coat final layer. I like Gelous, but Sally Hansen's classic Hard As Nails works here too.
After my last layer, I give my nails two minutes, then add a thick layer of quick dry top coat. Seche Vite is fine, so is Essie's Good To Go and Sally Hansen's Insta-Dri top coat (the red bottle one). All of these will probably need regular thinning, so keep that nail thinner around. After three more minutes, I can generally use a keyboard and mouse again without problems. Really, I don't mind a little smudging, as long as it's not excessive.
Those give a glossy effect at the end. If you want to have a more matte look, I've had no issues with Hard Candy's matte top coat. Note that matte coats are easier to damage than non-matte coats, so I have the non-quick dry top coat layer under these whenever I can.
My nail polish tends to last about four days before I need to start over, though sometimes I'll get lucky and it'll last a bit longer (especially if I've used Gelous).
And now I'll definitely moisturize my hands, now that my nails are dry and ready.
Thing 5: Other Resources
I used to hang out at Makeup Alley's nail care board back in 2011. They're pretty knowledgeable folks as a whole, and the Nail Board Wisdom notepad is a sight to behold (and the source of that three strokes to polish image). Be warned, though: I find they often care way more about small differences in color shades than most sane people, and trying to follow trends as they see them will result in a huge polish collection that you'll use once and then forget about. (Though honestly, this is true for most polish-obsessed folks in general.)
Loodie Loodie Loodie, despite the silly name, is a totally serious blog about nail health. I think she's occasionally a bit overboard, but her info on nail shape and moisturizing are utterly spot on.